Posted by admin | Window | Posted on February 19th, 2011
This is especially helpful in the summertime when your car can reach over 200 degrees while sitting in the sun. Before tinting an aperture, you must clean the glass so that the film can adhere properly.
This will result in a professional looking tint job. Remove or tape back any flaps that touch the glass where it extends into your door.
You may have to remove the door panel. Alternatively, you may be able to tape back the flap with some tape.
Clean the window, both inside and outside. Use a solution of warm water and gentle soap.
A few drops of dishwashing soap or baby soap will work fine. Spray the glass and then scrape the water off with a fresh razor blade, taking care not to scratch the glass.
Remove the rest of the water and debris from the glass using a squeegee. Clean the squeegee after each swipe so that you do not transfer debris from one area to another.
The glass must be completely clean to get optimal results. The outside must also be clean if you plan on working or measuring the shade against the outside of the glass.
Spray the exterior of the aperture to be tinted with the detergent water. Allow it to dry completely.
Wet the exterior with your soapy solution. Lay out the film on the glass with liner side facing out.
Level the bottom edge of the liner with the bottom edge of the glass. Wet the liner side of the shade and squeegee gently to hold the film in position.
Line up the bottom edge of the shade with the bottom edge of the window. Make sure the film is covering the whole window.
Squeegee the shade onto the aperture gently to hold the film in place while cutting. Carefully use the utility knife to cut off all excess shade.
Try to cut as close to the edge of the aperture as possible as the exterior will be the same shape as the interior. Peel off the film when done cutting.
Clean the interior of the window with the detergent water. Use the soft scrub pad to ensure all dirt is removed.
Use a squeegee to remove water from the aperture. Wrap the microfiber cloth around a credit card and clean under all gaskets around the window.
Liberally apply the detergent water to the interior of the aperture. Put a piece of tape on each side of the shade near a corner.
Use these tape pieces like handles to make pulling film from the liner easier. As you pull the shade from the liner, spray the film with the detergent water.
Align the top of the shade with the top of the window. Use the squeegee to push the film firm onto the aperture.
As you are pushing the shade with the squeegee you will work the water out from between the film and window. Move down the aperture applying the shade in this manner.
Wrap the microfiber cloth in the credit card and soak up any water that is along the edges. Expect that for the first 3 to 5 days after your tint is installed, depending on weather conditions, your windows may appear to be a bit hazy.
This is not an indication of a problem, but is a normal part of the drying process. Clean the inside of your apertures, which is where the tint is installed, with a special glass cleaner made for tint.
You can purchase this through the dealer who installed your car’s tinting. Mix together a 50/50 solution to clean your car tint that is made up commercially available cleaner and water.
Use a soft cloth to wipe your windows clean to ensure you will not scratch the film. Keep the outside of your aperture clean with any kind of glass cleaner you desire.
Since tint is installed on the inside of the glass, it is the only area that requires special treatment. Do not roll your windows down when your tint is new until you are sure it is completely dry.
Posted by admin | Real Estate | Posted on February 14th, 2011
Have you ever seen those websites about buying houses with “No Money Down?” They have all kinds of people offering great testimonials in little videos about how they have gotten rich, buying rental properties, with absolutely no money out of their pocket. There’s usually a wealthy looking man or woman talking to someone about their new house, and they “I own that one,” pointing to a beautiful colonial estate they bought on the cheap by using internet website advice “I also own that one next to it, and the one two doors down, and I’ll be closing on the one directly across the street from it, next week.
” They then assure viewers that they have purchased 35 homes in the last eight or ten months, with zero money down on the properties. Plus, in many cases they say they also paid no closing costs.
And, let’s not forget, this same person is grossing tens of thousands of dollars monthly, and his net worth is nearly ten million dollars. So they claim
Now, all of this looks wonderful, so when the person selling the course that will teach you how to do this, at a nifty price of just $ 500, speaks, you are glued to their every word. “Real estate is the safest and fastest way to make money in this economy” the expert will tell you.
So here’s the million dollar question. Can you purchase houses with no money down? Can you become a landlord in as little as one month’s time and start raking in the cash from those rent payments? The answer is an absolute “Yes.” It can be done, and I am proof positive, because others, despite a lot of misinformation out there, have been doing it, not always in terms of buying 35 homes in the past eight to ten months, but in a good amount for sure. The question you should be asking yourself is not can I buy real estate with no money down, but should I?
This is the million dollar question that the person selling the no money down program with all the amazing testimonials hopes you never ask. The websites advertising and marketing strategy would collapse, if they gave anyone a chance to ask this question, because they would be forced to lie if they answered it for everyone. Start your own exhaustive search of different real estate offers and assess for yourself what you want, how much you’re willing to invest, and what’s a B.B.B. approved offer or business, and what is not. Check scam reporting websites to ensure the offer is legit to. .
Posted by admin | Cabinets | Posted on February 4th, 2011
There are different ways to approach the issue of how to provide this needed storage. Obviously, you have to work around the layout of the kitchen area.
In the case of having such a small kitchen that there is no room for a pantry cabinet, you will be restricted to using racks that hang over doors. These can be placed on closet doors, or doors leading to basements, in close proximity to your kitchen.
Another option to the door rack is a free-standing pantry cabinet which can be positioned near the kitchen. These can be found in any style and color you can think of. If you select this solution to your food storage problem, make it reflect your style and design preference.
Built-in Kitchen Pantry Cabinet
The most typical solution to finding a place for food storage is the built-in cabinet which matches the rest of your cabinetry. These cabinets are usually made either 12″ or 24″ deep, and the full height of the other cabinets (7 ft.or higher).
In the case of the 12″ deep cabinet, the interior is very straight forward. You should have 5 adjustable shelves, positioned to accommodate the heights of the products you will keep there.
Each shelf should have a specific type of product (i.e. beverages on one shelf, paper products on one, canned goods on one, etc.) Common sense will dictate that you place the tall items behind the shorter ones. Labels should not be necessary.
When dealing with 24″ deep cabinets, the problem of seeing and accessing what is at the back of the shelf needs to be addressed. In the event that your kitchen is existing and you are upgrading, there are several organizing accessories available. Rev-A-Shelf and K V are both good sources of quality products. Find full pricing and product lines by Googling these manufacturers.
These can get expensive (up to $ 2000, plus installation). I do not recommend buying racks that are attached to the doors of the kitchen pantry cabinet. These racks will become heavy, and over time you will have problems with door alignment.
Hinges will often need adjusting, and screws will loosen. Furthermore, these doors are usually higher than other cabinet doors and they are only 3/4″ thick. Seasonal changes in temperature and humidity will cause warping, which will be increased by the additional weight of the racks.
What I strongly recommend for both existing and new pantry cabinets, built-in or free-standing, is the pull-out tray. It is not only as useful as the other organizing systems, but it is also A LOT cheaper.
Trays are different from shelves in that they have lips all around the perimeter which keeps stuff from sliding off. The lip also provides a place where the drawer slide hardware can be attached.
The bottom tray should have HD (heavy duty) slides which can accommodate up to 150 lbs. This is where your large beverage bottles should be, so that you don’t have to lift the weight very far.
Other trays can have 100 lb.
slides, but ALL slides should be of the ball-bearing variety, and “full-extension” slides. The highest tray should be reserved for paper products and other light-weight items.
Butler’s Pantry
If you’re lucky enough to have a separate room for a pantry, you have 2 options. A Butler’s pantry is typically a work area. Therefore, upper and lower cabinets usually are made for storage, with a counter top to work on. This area might have a sink as well.
The other option is strickly storage on shelves. The greatest capacity is achieved with a rolling shelving system like those made by Lundia (Google “rolling shelving” to get more info).
This would apply only if you have 10 kids, have many relatives living with you, own a soup kitchen, or feed the neighborhood regularly. Otherwise, this option might be overkill.